Let's get ready for Mt. Dora! Well, its January and the snow is on the ground here in Cincinnati, Ohio; but my mind is on warm weather, sunshine and my Chris-Craft on the water. Oh, am I dreaming… or what?

Well, it's not too soon to start thinking about going to the water. This time of the year, we have time to look at our boats and make some decisions on what to do, what needs attention, what can I do now and what need to be done in the spring.

Things to think about:

Q. How long has this battery been in my boat?
A. If it is three years old or older, purchase a new one in April. Buy the best battery you can afford with the greatest capacity. Remember, when something goes wrong, it's always the battery that keeps us afloat.

Q. Does my boat need to be varnished?
A. Clean your boat with water and dry of with a bath towel. Take a good look at the varnish. If it has become satin-like or lost its shine - it may be time to give it a coat

To do this, first remove all chrome hardware from the entire area to be varnished.

Second, wash down all areas to be varnished with tri-sodium phosphate (TSP), rinse then towel dry. This will remove any dirt, oil or other substances that might effect the varnish.

Third, we will hand sand all areas to be varnished with 280 grit silicone carbide sandpaper - (dry).

Fourth, vacuum all areas off, paying special attention to screw holes, vent areas, lifting ring hole (anywhere dust might linger and end up in your varnish.

Fifth, using a tack cloth, go over all areas and get any remaining dust. Also, you can dampen a cotton rag with Interlux 216 Special Thinner and wipe off all areas to be varnished. Let dry and go over it with a tack cloth.

Sixth, apply your varnish using a badger hairbrush or a thin foam roller followed by a brush. Next, polish all your chrome and stainless hardware and install it back on the boat putting bedding compound on the screw threads.

Q. Is my safety gear in working order?
A. Winter is the ideal time to go through the safety equipment and other equipment on the boat. First, check the gauge on the fire extinguisher and make sure the gauge is up. It's also not a bad idea to purchase a new one every four to five years. Second, how is the PFD'S (life jackets)? Is there enough? Are all the belts and clips in good shape? Third, how are the dock lines, anchor lines, paddle, anchor, throwable device (seat cushions with straps), distress flag, flares? Also, making sure the horn works. Fourth, do all the navigation lights work as well as the instrument lights? Is the bilge pump in good shape and are there extra fuses? Fifth, Do you have a spare propeller, key, propeller nut and cotter key? Is there a spare tire for the trailer?

Make sure you have all your safety equipment on board when you go to the water. One life jacket for each person aboard, a throwable device attached to a line (cushion with straps, or a ring buoy), an anchor and appropriate amount of line for the depth of the water you boat on, a sea anchor if you do coastal boating, a paddle, a distress flag, safety flares, horn and of course, fire extinguishers. Now if your boat is of greater size, these specifications may change.

Q. What other safety issues should be address about my classic boat?
A. Take a good look at your boat's mechanicals.

First of all, exhaust hoses should be double-clamped at all joints.
Second: All accessories and electrical equipment must be fused.
Third: Fuel tank and fill spout must be grounded. If the fill tube has a hose on it, all joints must be double-clamped.
Fourth: If your fuel line is rubber, all joints must be double-clamped.
Fifth: NO PLASTIC FUEL FILTERS! All fuel filters must be a marine unit. If your boat came with a copper fuel line, the filter must be plumbed with copper. Make sure your fuel line has a shut-off valve.
Sixth: Make sure your battery has a cover over it and that it is well secured.
Seventh: Your engine water hose must be double-clamped at the pickup. If you have a self-bailer, this should be double-clamped.
Eighth: No wire nuts or taped splices in your boat's wiring. Always try to use soldered joints and heat shrink insulators.
Ninth: Make sure your bilge is clean and free of oil.

These are just some ideas I have come up with to help everyone get to the water in a safe manner. Our winter months are the best time to address some of these issues and it will give us plenty of time to complete these tasks and be ready to boat early in the spring.

If anyone has a question about doing maintenance on their boats or where to purchase products necessary to complete those jobs, just give me a call at The Wooden Boat Shop, Inc. There is no charge for this service because your safety is more important.

Jack McCarthy